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Posts tagged ‘Vienna’

GREEN LIGHT TO LIFEBALL – TONIGHT’S THE NIGHT

Vienna is buzzing and it’s not the bees pollinating the trees. The subway speakers are quoting Conchita Wurst wisdoms about love and tolerance and gay and lesbian tourists holding hands and taking snap shots outnumber those from Asia. Even the city’s pedestrian lights are flashing green pairs of ladies walking hand and hand. And this morning, heeding the Austrian “Akademische Viertel” that Viennese have extended to not just the university but all parts of life, I cum tempore c.t.-ed my way to the Press Office at 12:15 pm and picked up my bright green press pass wristband. “Vienna muses!” she said, smiling and handing me my wristband.

Vienna Lifeball

Vienna Pedestrian Crossing Lights – two ladies hand and hand

Vienna City Hall Lifeball 2015

Vienna City Hall Lifeball 2015

Armed with my ticket to the greatest party on earth, I opted to test its magic ASAP and flashed it to the guard at the Rathaus fence, who promptly let me slip in and snap a few shots of the City Hall.

The gold chariot awaits its driver and the cat walk is ready to go. The bars are up, the tent stations are manned and in less than five hours, Vienna’s craziest party of the year is about to begin.

But that’s not all. Thanks to my magical wristband, not only did I get some nice shots for you all of the Rathaus, but lo and behold, hurrying up the ramp to the stage, in a got-tons-to-do jot was Lifeball organizer, Gery Keszler himself – the man who must be utterly exhausted from all the preparations, and personally welcoming all the out-of-town “Promis” arriving at the Vienna airport. Pure adrenalin. And while I was kicking myself for not having my camera in ready-mode to get a better pix, he was all smiles and cheerful, making his rounds, checking it twice, making sure things will be perfect for the naughty and nice.

Gery Keszler

Gery Keszler – Lifeball Organizer – Making his rounds hours before the Opening

It’s time to Lifeball!!!

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READY TO LIFEBALL

Just as only a lover can reveal to a man what life means to him and develop its innermost significance… – Austrian writer Hermann Bahr, 1901, in his “Speech on Klimt” describing Klimt’s artwork.

Gearing up for Vienna’s 2015 LifeBall

Print This Post “Dress – good buy. Worn once. Wedding.” The taxi driver gave me a thumbs up and pocketed my Euros. One thing was sure, he was happy to see that thing go.

Second sure thing, if gowns could talk, this one would have tales to tell because it was going to the Lifeball. With me!

This year’s theme? GOLD – VER SACRUM ala Austrian artist, Gustav Klimt.

Gold Accessories for Lifeball

Gold Accessories for Lifeball

Klimt! The name “…intimately associated in the art-lover’s mind with sensuous lines, erotic and beautiful women, and decorative golden detail.” (Essential Klimt)

After the confirmation that I had accomplished the next-to-impossible task of securing a ticket, I moved into action mode. That evening I charged head first into Willhaben’s “Abendkleid” collection, scouring countless computer screens and hundreds of gowns. Finally, in the wee hours of the morning, my weary eyes in blurred determination spotted it like a fata morgana on a distant horizon — a flowing toga-looking dress bearing a bold gold sash and dotted with gold spheres destined for Gustav’s magic.

Close of Gown

Close of Gown

Next stop, basement of Libro in a hunt for fabric paints (don’t kids do crafts anymore?).

A kitchen table, a bottle of nail polish remover, 99 cent paintbrushes and a Klimt coffeetable book of art I had scored a few years ago for half price at Borders in North Carolina and I was set. I am no artist, but the lights in Vienna’s City Hall were bound to be forgiving. Or the alcohol flowing. Or both. Let’s face it, by midnight, all Cinderellas will have hurried home and every man, woman and Conchita is stunning in any costume.

Contrary to other Vienna balls, come 1 am at the Lifeball, it’s not just the ladies kicking off their heels to jam in their stockings, it’s the guys too. In fact, the entire night, you’re getting sympathetic nods, as they too adjust their mascara, dab some clear nail polish on the run in their ‘hose, and duck into a corner to readjust their bra straps.

Faschingsprinz

Gold Glam at Vienna’s Faschingsprinz – perfect of Lifeball accessories

“Hmm Hmm Hmmm giiirl! Where did you get such a sassy hair feather? That so accentuates the azure in that gown!” OK. Maybe the German version of that. But you get the idea. And hey! Maybe not. Because the Lifeball is without bounds and without borders. Folks are from anywhere and everywhere. And you won’t know if they are black, white, grey, brown, yellow or polka-dotted green. Speak German, English or Swahili. You also won’t know if they are homosexuals, heterosexuals, transsexuals, asexuals or what-ever. Are they male, female, neither or both? You won’t know. Because no one cares. Everyone is there to have fun, party, celebrate and raise money for a good cause. So get with the program!

Amongst this crowd, if you don’t want to blend into the background like a sparrow in a parade of peacocks, you better go for the gold and accessorize.

Fortunately, I live in the district with probably the very best shop in town for Lifeball needs – Faschingsprinz. Don’t judge this shop by its website. They seem to have last updated their important events list in 2010, but I’m sure that’s just because they’re too busy uniting creative customers with their artistic needs. No idea where to start with your Lifeball outfit? Go there. And if you’re tempted by those sparkling red no-place-like home heels, go for it. They’re bound to match someone’s leather outfit.

Armed with leis of golden flowers and sparkly Egyptian style eye make up damning me to hours of mirror time, I headed home to pimp up my parade.

Lifeball 2014

Lifeball 2014

Full Gown for Lifeball

Full Gown for Lifeball

By midnight, pleased my gown project didn’t end in disaster (I have a low success threshold when it comes to creative projects), I was sleep-deprived enough to convince myself that the smock-donning man who was still inspiring multitudes with his beautiful works of art almost a hundred years after his death would have forgiven my attempt to emulate his technique — considering it was for a good cause. But even at that hour I seriously doubted he would have exhibited the thrilled enthusiasm of the taxi driver husband who was so eager to get the gown gone that he offered to perform a home delivery on a Craigslist sale item. A good buy. A very good buy.

Friends have asked why I would want to go to a ball alone. Truth is, I only got one ticket so it wasn’t really a decision. Sure it’d be a blast to go with some friends but if last year’s ball is any indication, I’m not worried.

At the Lifeball there are no sparrows, only peacocks. And I will just sync my step with the suicidal stilettos, shiny heels, sensible sandals and ripped stockings of my fellow Dorothies dreaming of a better place somewhere over the rainbow. That in Vienna, year for year, exists for an entire amazing night. Because beyond the gold, flash, and pizazz is a celebration of “life’s innermost significance” – what distinguishes but unites us. No matter color, creed or sexual orientation. Everyone coming together in a night of awesomeness to fight HIV and AIDs and celebrate life.

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Sparkly Red Shoes

Shoes from Faschingsprinz high and sparkly enough to transport anyone over a rainbow

And I’m ready. Ready to Lifeball.

And maybe get a selfie with Conchita Wurst!

KC’s 2014 Lifeball Good Times and Memories: Celebrating Life in the Garden of Earthly Delights

Vienna Lifeball: Vienna’s City Hall (Rathaus)

Saturday, May 16, 2015
Ball Opening: 9:30 pm
Entrances: Open as of 7:30 pm
The Vienna Ringstrasse will be closed Saturday evening from Schwarzenbergplatz to Schottentor from 6 pm – 11:30 pm.

Don’t have a ball ticket?

Come to the Rathaus (U2 Schottentor or Rathaus) and admire the costumes as ball guests enter the ball parading down the red carpet to the Vienna City Hall.

Want a preview of what’s to come? Check out the Lifeball Style Bible – Klimt’s paintings staged with live models – a feast for the eyes! No wonder the man caused a ruckus when he opted to stop painting the cherubs and go for something a bit more modern – over 100 years ago!

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Operation Radetzky – the 70th Anniversary of Vienna’s Fight to Survive

Soviet War Memorial, Schwarzenbergplatz, Red Army Soldiers

Soviet War Memorial, Schwarzenbergplatz, Red Army Soldiers

“The majority of common people loathe war and pray for peace; only a handful of individuals whose evil joys depend on general misery, desire war.” — Desiderius Erasmus

Print This Post Today in Vienna, like in many parts of the world, a visitor steals into town in the middle of the night to leave surprises for all the good boys and girls. Austrian tradition demands that children prepare nests for the Easter bunny so that the big old rabbit knows just where to leave the chocolate, colored eggs and goodies. The tradition – like many traditions – is also perhaps rooted in a practical benefit — nests cut down on the risk that any errant egg is left forgotten until odorous hints demand that the suffering family uncover its whereabouts weeks later.

Seventy years ago, on April 6, 1945, however, the visitors who swept into Vienna were coming for very different reasons. And the preparations that Hitler demanded of the city of Vienna included no Easter nests.

On March 19, 1945, Hitler, drafted the ARLZ measures (Auflösung (some sources Auflockerung (breaking up)) – , Räumung, Lähmung, Zerstörung – Liquidation, Stripping, Paralysis, Destruction). Historians later called the plan to destroy all infrastructure of the German Reich before the Allied Troops could invade the Nero Decree – in reference to the crazed Roman Emperor who is said to have sang in stage costume (“played the fiddle”) while his city went up in flames. In Vienna, German troops should destroy all of the city’s vital infrastructure for traffic, information, industry and public utilities. This would include bridges, railway stations, water plants, electrical plants, gas plants, important road corridors, public transportation networks – in short anything and everything the enemy could use to help them advance their goals. The only thing wrong with the plan (though not according to Hitler who was no doubt upset about the obvious downfall of his “superior race” and not adverse to putting a little punishment into the mix) was that such destruction would render the facilities not only useless for the enemy but for the Viennese civilians as well. Wisely realizing that his plan might not be his most popular measure, Hitler kept his ARLZ measures secret from the general public but even in the pre-internet days of WWII, rumors had wings.

The Viennese major, Carl Szokoll, was instructed to draft the plans for Vienna’s self-destruction — so thorough and devious, that it even included the Anker bread factory (!) But Major Carl Szokoll was not just another major. In fact, almost two years before he was involved in a bit of a German Reich scandal. As an army captain in Vienna, he had helped his commander,  Colonel Heinrich Kodre, round up all the leading members of the SS and Nazi administration in the city as part of the 20 July plot to assassinate Hitler and take control. The plot failed and while Stauffenberg and his crew were executed and Colonel Kodre deported to a concentration camp, Szokoll managed to talk his way out of serious repercussions (death by execution) by convincing the Gestapo that he had simply been following orders (which very fortunate for Szokoll, the Nazis obviously found to be a legitimate excuse). But by 1945, upon receipt of the ARLZ measures, Szokoll was once again willing to risk his life to counter his Nazi superiors.

In Spring 1945, Major Szokoll joined “Operation Radetzky” –named after the beloved Austrian general, “Father Radetzky” who Strauss immortalized in his song the “Radetzky March” (played annually at the Vienna Philharmonic New Year’s concert to the clapping and enthusiasm of all Viennese).

“Operation Radetzky” intended to save Vienna from the bleak fate of Berlin, Budapest and Warsaw by making it an “open city” – meaning a place that does not put up any resistance to incoming foreign troops. Operation Radetzky’s success depended on the cooperation of commanders in Vienna who should pretend to be preparing to destroy the city while making plans to save it. Szokoll and his supporters also joined forces with the resistance fighters of the city (O5 and POEN). Szokoll’s Staff Sergeant, Käs, sucessfully managed to make contact with the Soviet Red Army, offer cooperation and request that Vienna be spared annihilation. Plans were made to withdraw the city’s defense units as soon as the Soviet Army closed in and assist the Red Army in taking over the city once they arrived. Meanwhile, the Allied troops would cease their bombing of the city, preserve access to the water supply and refrain from destroying key installations.

On April 5, Soviet planes released the agreed upon red flares to signal their coming entry into the city. The resistance fighters responded with green flares to mark the beginning of Operation Radetzky. While the Red Army advanced to the city, the resistance fighters within Vienna were to wrest control from the SS and Nazi administration in order to peacefully hand over the city to the Soviets on April 6 at 12:30 pm (don’t ask me why at 12:30 not noon, I have no idea). However, on April 5, the Nazis became privy to the plan, rounded up three of Szokoll’s co-conspirators (Major Karl Biedermann, Lieutenant Rudolf Raschke, and Second Lieutenant Alfred Huth) and publicly hanged them from lampposts at Floridsdorf Spitz on April 8. Signs attached to their bodies read: “I have made a pact with the Bolsheviks.” Szokoll, however, was not in Vienna at the time of the arrests and was therefore able to evade capture.

Despite the blow, the Radetzky units managed to share vital information with the Red Army concerning the troop, weapon and bomb locations of the Nazis in Vienna. In addition, the Resistance advised the Red Army to advance from the west and north and finally invade via the Vienna Woods in the East rather than enter from the south where Nazi troops expected them.

On April 6 the assault on Vienna began and ended only 8 days later on April 13. The swift capture of Vienna meant that Nazi troops had no time to implement the ARLZ measures, sparing the city the devastation its neighbors to the east had suffered (in Berlin, SS troops put up a serious fight causing severe casualties and damage – some estimate that over 200,000 died during the siege). As Soviet troops advanced into the inner districts, Viennese helped them navigate through the streets. White flags and sheets were hung from the windows and civilians helped German soldiers lay down their weapons by giving them a quick change of clothes to replace their Reich uniforms. Historians estimate that about 37,000 soldiers and 3000 civilians lost their lives in the battle for Vienna – casualties far fewer than other cities. Though, every third house was destroyed or damaged, things could have been far worse. In Budapest, the siege had lasted 50 days, 80 percent of the buildings had been destroyed and hundreds of thousands of people died with an estimated 25,000 dying of starvation.

During the war 90,000 Viennese men died as soldiers and 60,000 Viennese Jews were murdered. Stephansdom, the Riesenrad, Parliament, the Burgtheater and the City Operahouse all suffered fire or severe damage.

And yet.

On April 30, the cast of the Burgtheater was already putting on a show and on May 1, the Vienna Philharmonic played its first after-war concert.

But the battle was far from over. While the Soviets maneuvered to install a pro-Communist postwar government in Vienna, the British and Americans had other plans for the city and the Austrians anchored the Declaration of Neutrality in 1955 in their Constitution of Austria declaring itself “permanently neutral.”

READ MORE HERE

Frankfurter Rundschau, 13. April 2005, „Schlacht um Wien brachte Tod und Zerstörung“ by Christian Fürst

The Guardian, 30 August 2004, Carl Szokoll Obituary

New Perspectives on Austrians and World War II, edited by Gunter Bischof, Fritz Plasser, Barbara Stelzl-Marx

The Setting of the Pearl, Vienna under Hitler, Thomas Weyr

Anything from Manfried Rauchensteiner – Austrian Historian, military expert, President of the Austrian Commission for Military History and a former professor of mine. Maybe start out with his book on WWII

 

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Edith Harms and Egon Schiele

“Bodies have their own light which they consume to live: they burn, they are not lit from the outside.” – Egon Schiele

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A young girl of a proper family. Herr Papa, a Meister Locksmith, Frau Mama a Meister Hawkeye.

But the curious artist across the street with his parade of models who bare themselves for his brush, will not be deterred.

The perfect wife. Standing. Financial Means. A young artist of 25 deserves no less.

A rendezvous is out of the question. But perhaps with Wally…

His model. His muse. His soulmate. His matchmaker.

While Adele and Edith cloak themselves in layers of social acceptability and tradition, he scours the lanes of Park Schönbrunn for Wallys willing to bare all for his brush.

Pornography? Art?

The lines blur.

War.

“I’m planning to marry – most advantageously – perhaps not Wally.”

Perhaps Adele. Or Edith.

Edith.

Wife. Not model. Wife. Not Muse.

A proper lady. A proper life. A proper wife.

Edith Harms by Egon Schiele

Edith Harms by Egon Schiele

The muse must go.

The artist must fight.

The muse must die.

The artist must paint.

Soldiers. Scenes.

Three years of marriage and a third is on the way.

Spanish flu.

The wife, the unborn child must die. Three days later, he too. Print This Post

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Exhibition: “Wally Neuzil and Her Life with Egon Schiele” – February 2 – June 1, 2015, Leopold Museum: http://www.leopoldmuseum.org/en – with info on Edith Harms.

If you speak German, I highly recommend the Sunday tours at 3 pm. My guide this past Sunday was an expert on Turn of the Century Vienna, gave lots of fascinating details and background info. The tours are free if you have an entrance ticket. Just tell the information desk next to the ticket counter you’d like to go along.

Also, there is an Audio Guide available (in English and German) and a book about Wally and Schiele (in German).

More on Egon Schiele on artsy.net site

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